Welcome to my very first travel post! My cousin and I went on a whirlwind trip to the island nation of Sao tome e Principe in May 2018 and after much back and forth...the fruits of our labour are below. Enjoy!
Dates: 12th-17th May, 2018
Travellers: Two 30 something queens
Transportation: TAP Portugal from Accra, round trip tickets $325 and $310
Travel Agency: Navetur [690 EUR]
Cash Spend:190 EUR
Accommodation: Domus Tomensis (4 nights), Pestana Equador (1 night)
Visa Requirements: not required for passport holders of several countries or those with valid US or Schengen visas for stays <15 days, otherwise 20 EUR upon arrival after approval. Online visa application
Pre-Travel Prep
I spent about 2 months actually planning the trip, stalking the country as a whole and waiting for emails. One email bounced back, one agency didn't do tours, the other replied a month later and we ended up going with Navetur who were the first to respond. After 40 odd emails, we finally had a plan in place and were ready to set off. I avoided checking the weather forecast since it wasn't going to influence our decision to go...but did at the last moment and yes...it was due to rain all week :/
Despite the ridiculous traffic in Accra, we made it to the airport in time. Check-in etc, Flight etc was uneventful, small talk at every check point at KIA didn't exceed the norm, no contraband was found on our persons, and off we went.
The international airport is pretty small and there's no way you'll get lost. The entry process was pretty simple and was basically just standing in line till you get checked. Interestingly...leve leve isn't the slogan for immigration officials...so be warned. Do have your ish together.
Our driver was standing right outside the exit with my name printed out and off we went to discover STP. We changed money in the street, got a SIM card for ~3 EUR, struggled to get an internet bundle and gave up. Checking into our apartment was going smoothly till the lights went out (another recurring theme) and once it became clear we wouldn't be getting the generator turned on, we decided take advantage of the available ride and got dropped off at our spot for the night.
Activity: Dinner and drinks at Pico Mocambo
Set in what used to be a very fancy mansion, the bar is on the first floor and has 2 rooms for lounging and surfing the interwebs. Most establishments in STP have WiFi which was definitely a plus. Pico offers their signature rum in assorted flavours (cacao, passion fruit, star fruit etc) and sells the passion fruit version in a 700cl bottle. Their focus is on liquids but if you must consume solids, they work with Restaurant Jasmin and the basic ham and cheese pizza for 170,000 DB was one of the best I've had.
Pedro and Iyosaldo are the indomitable bartender/DJ/entertainers and we were very clearly made to understand the the party only starts at 11pm...10 if we're lucky and at this point it was 7:30pm and we were ready for bed. STP though frequented by all ages seems to be for the young at heart...and mind...and body.
Expenses: 690 DB for 1 medium pizza, 4 drinks, 2 shots
De ja new: Random guy at the airport who asks if we're from Ghana and says Akwaaba. Very strange. Another tour guide who helped us translate in the parking lot, also welcomes us with Akwaaba since we're obviously from Ghana (this became a common theme), Jerry and V- regulars at Pico who also know a couple of Gh folk
Question: Are we going to see the sun this vacay?
Answer: #ifitstopsraining
So...clearly the umbrellas were very necessary since it rained all day. We look at soggy leisurely stroll to Panaderia Moderna for some carbs ( success!) and a quick trip to Mama Africa for water, which was closed (fail!) and while we planned our next line of action in the search for drinkables, the Navetur bus pulled up and hour early
Activity: East Coast Tour
We got picked up at 8:45am...which was actually 9:45am because STP is now on WAT not GMT. We snaked our way along the winding roads through rainy rain forests to Boca de Inferno, Agua Ize and eventually Roca Sao Joao dos Angolares where we were inundated with micro food. Allegedly this is a 'tasting menu' and this is allegedly a thing and is a gastronomic exercise for which I wasn't prepared, but open my palette I did. There were several fancy dishes all made with local ingredients and presented in an Instagram worthy fashion. I'm not sure if the waiters are also Joao's students but definitely ask them to explain the dish several times in Portuguese and then in English...it's the best way to learn and at least one of them enjoys it. Allegedly some folks from an Anglophone west African country that starts with G stormed out after they learnt there was no rice and chicken following the starters so we were pleasantly surprised to be served Calulu com Arroz e Frango (green leaf stew with rice and chicken). These two events may or may not be related. The main was followed by dessert which we sadly couldn't finish because we had a boat to catch, and off we went through the Caue district, home to the largest population of Angolares. My cousin remarked that it was awfully strange that there were no pictures of the vessel used to ferry people from Ponta Baleia to Ilha das Rolas online and it could be due to the fact that you need all your limbs to grasp objects but I doubt many people sail during a rain storm so there must be another reason. I recommend the Port side (success), unless you enjoy sea water baths.
Checking into Pestana Equador was straightforward, sadly, there were no fun activities to be had, no turtles nesting and aqua sports were on the beach on mainland. We settled in for some pre dinner drinks (The Mojito Equador is made from local herbs (micoco) instead of mint and then feasted on a buffet of fish, pork, vegetables, rice and potatoes.
Deja new: dude from Roca Sao Joao, ?American tourists
Question: Can one swim from Ponta Baleia to Ilhue das Rolas, if one is impatient?
Answer: No
Question: Was the 10 minute wait for the mojito because the bar tender had to go and look for the special leaves?
Answer: Yes
The hotel itself was quite comfortable. The staff were friendly- as are 99% of Santomeans. There are daily tours at 9am and 2:30pm however, if you're only there for 24hrs, you'll have to choose 1 since the boat ride to/from the islet itself is at 10am and 4:30pm. The boat ride back wasn't that bad, guess it was just the storm...and the fact that it was high tide, but yes. Not in the mood to trek for food, we decide to go straight to drinks and try our luck. The STP version of Republic only has grilled cheese so we cross the road to the fancy looking hotel apartment BH and the octopus salad did not disappoint...that night or the next morning. Again, there was no mint 'in the system' so the bartender organised some leaves for me, this time, it was lemon grass.
Activity: Rolling in the deep in Ilhue das Rolas, Food at Santa Helena, Drinks at Leve Leve-me
Deja vu: ?American tourists from Roca Sao Joao
Deja new: Portuguese chicks, Aqua Zumba crew, Ghanaian Civil Engineer, Fela's second coming
Expenses: 190 DB per person to share 2 starters at Santa Helena, 196 for 1 drink
Dates: 12th-17th May, 2018
Travellers: Two 30 something queens
Transportation: TAP Portugal from Accra, round trip tickets $325 and $310
Travel Agency: Navetur [690 EUR]
Cash Spend:190 EUR
Accommodation: Domus Tomensis (4 nights), Pestana Equador (1 night)
Visa Requirements: not required for passport holders of several countries or those with valid US or Schengen visas for stays <15 days, otherwise 20 EUR upon arrival after approval. Online visa application
Pre-Travel Prep
I spent about 2 months actually planning the trip, stalking the country as a whole and waiting for emails. One email bounced back, one agency didn't do tours, the other replied a month later and we ended up going with Navetur who were the first to respond. After 40 odd emails, we finally had a plan in place and were ready to set off. I avoided checking the weather forecast since it wasn't going to influence our decision to go...but did at the last moment and yes...it was due to rain all week :/
Day 1
Despite the ridiculous traffic in Accra, we made it to the airport in time. Check-in etc, Flight etc was uneventful, small talk at every check point at KIA didn't exceed the norm, no contraband was found on our persons, and off we went.
The international airport is pretty small and there's no way you'll get lost. The entry process was pretty simple and was basically just standing in line till you get checked. Interestingly...leve leve isn't the slogan for immigration officials...so be warned. Do have your ish together.
Our driver was standing right outside the exit with my name printed out and off we went to discover STP. We changed money in the street, got a SIM card for ~3 EUR, struggled to get an internet bundle and gave up. Checking into our apartment was going smoothly till the lights went out (another recurring theme) and once it became clear we wouldn't be getting the generator turned on, we decided take advantage of the available ride and got dropped off at our spot for the night.
Activity: Dinner and drinks at Pico Mocambo
Set in what used to be a very fancy mansion, the bar is on the first floor and has 2 rooms for lounging and surfing the interwebs. Most establishments in STP have WiFi which was definitely a plus. Pico offers their signature rum in assorted flavours (cacao, passion fruit, star fruit etc) and sells the passion fruit version in a 700cl bottle. Their focus is on liquids but if you must consume solids, they work with Restaurant Jasmin and the basic ham and cheese pizza for 170,000 DB was one of the best I've had.
Pedro and Iyosaldo are the indomitable bartender/DJ/entertainers and we were very clearly made to understand the the party only starts at 11pm...10 if we're lucky and at this point it was 7:30pm and we were ready for bed. STP though frequented by all ages seems to be for the young at heart...and mind...and body.
Expenses: 690 DB for 1 medium pizza, 4 drinks, 2 shots
De ja new: Random guy at the airport who asks if we're from Ghana and says Akwaaba. Very strange. Another tour guide who helped us translate in the parking lot, also welcomes us with Akwaaba since we're obviously from Ghana (this became a common theme), Jerry and V- regulars at Pico who also know a couple of Gh folk
Question: Are we going to see the sun this vacay?
Answer: #ifitstopsraining
Day 2
So...clearly the umbrellas were very necessary since it rained all day. We look at soggy leisurely stroll to Panaderia Moderna for some carbs ( success!) and a quick trip to Mama Africa for water, which was closed (fail!) and while we planned our next line of action in the search for drinkables, the Navetur bus pulled up and hour early
Activity: East Coast Tour
We got picked up at 8:45am...which was actually 9:45am because STP is now on WAT not GMT. We snaked our way along the winding roads through rainy rain forests to Boca de Inferno, Agua Ize and eventually Roca Sao Joao dos Angolares where we were inundated with micro food. Allegedly this is a 'tasting menu' and this is allegedly a thing and is a gastronomic exercise for which I wasn't prepared, but open my palette I did. There were several fancy dishes all made with local ingredients and presented in an Instagram worthy fashion. I'm not sure if the waiters are also Joao's students but definitely ask them to explain the dish several times in Portuguese and then in English...it's the best way to learn and at least one of them enjoys it. Allegedly some folks from an Anglophone west African country that starts with G stormed out after they learnt there was no rice and chicken following the starters so we were pleasantly surprised to be served Calulu com Arroz e Frango (green leaf stew with rice and chicken). These two events may or may not be related. The main was followed by dessert which we sadly couldn't finish because we had a boat to catch, and off we went through the Caue district, home to the largest population of Angolares. My cousin remarked that it was awfully strange that there were no pictures of the vessel used to ferry people from Ponta Baleia to Ilha das Rolas online and it could be due to the fact that you need all your limbs to grasp objects but I doubt many people sail during a rain storm so there must be another reason. I recommend the Port side (success), unless you enjoy sea water baths.
Checking into Pestana Equador was straightforward, sadly, there were no fun activities to be had, no turtles nesting and aqua sports were on the beach on mainland. We settled in for some pre dinner drinks (The Mojito Equador is made from local herbs (micoco) instead of mint and then feasted on a buffet of fish, pork, vegetables, rice and potatoes.
Deja new: dude from Roca Sao Joao, ?American tourists
Question: Can one swim from Ponta Baleia to Ilhue das Rolas, if one is impatient?
Answer: No
Question: Was the 10 minute wait for the mojito because the bar tender had to go and look for the special leaves?
Answer: Yes
Day 3
It looks like sun! Fast broken on a succulent omelette, cold cuts and sugared pastries, we got ready for our leisurely stroll that ended up being a hike. I was not ready. We learnt about the island and finally made it up to the equator mark for mandatory photos and coconuts. This 2hr long hike covered the top half of the islet and the southern half that covered the caves and lighthouse was to be done at 2:30pm. Spoiler alert, everyone was tired. We spent the afternoon lounging in the sun, doing 1 lap in the largest pool in WA and being tossed about like a log in the ocean, performing aqua zumba with the golden girls, and possibly introducing folks to Afrobeats.The hotel itself was quite comfortable. The staff were friendly- as are 99% of Santomeans. There are daily tours at 9am and 2:30pm however, if you're only there for 24hrs, you'll have to choose 1 since the boat ride to/from the islet itself is at 10am and 4:30pm. The boat ride back wasn't that bad, guess it was just the storm...and the fact that it was high tide, but yes. Not in the mood to trek for food, we decide to go straight to drinks and try our luck. The STP version of Republic only has grilled cheese so we cross the road to the fancy looking hotel apartment BH and the octopus salad did not disappoint...that night or the next morning. Again, there was no mint 'in the system' so the bartender organised some leaves for me, this time, it was lemon grass.
Activity: Rolling in the deep in Ilhue das Rolas, Food at Santa Helena, Drinks at Leve Leve-me
Deja vu: ?American tourists from Roca Sao Joao
Deja new: Portuguese chicks, Aqua Zumba crew, Ghanaian Civil Engineer, Fela's second coming
Expenses: 190 DB per person to share 2 starters at Santa Helena, 196 for 1 drink
Day 4
Finally a day of relaxation...jokes...we spent the morning/afternoon strolling and tanning our way through the city of Sao Tome. We started our tour at the national museum in what was Sao Sebastiao's museum which like many colonial forts and castles features the goriest aspects of STP's colonial past. We returned home to find the lights out and after much finalagling decided to put my SSS skills to use. We bought some candles, carried a huge bucket of water into the shower and made lemonade...you say ridiculous...you say candle light bath.
We finally made our way to Restaurant-Bar Camoes and were thankfully greeted by WiFi and a helpful waitress. We treated ourselves to beans stew, fish stew, white rice, bread fruit and gari, before making our way to Pico Mocambo (not before checking out Cafe Cesar for live music...it didn't have). Overall, it was a pretty uneventful day till we heard a loud sound (spoiler alert gun shots)...followed by another loud sound and an individual in plain clothes with an AK 47 stopping a car and forcing the driver into the back seat.
Deja new: random mixed couple, random Spanish couple
Deja vu: Jerry from Pico
Question: so...what was all that?
Answer: we had so many theories, so feel free to add yours to the comments
By this morning we're fully worn out, but a plan is a plan. We set off for our tour of the Plantations of the north and stroll through the ruins of what is how the hospital of the Agustinho Neto Plantation. We eventually make our way to the paradise that is Lagoa Azul and spend a solid ?60 minutes taking mandatory pictures, swimming, changing into and out of swimwear AKA practising our magic tricks. Luckily I remembered I brought my goggles and was able to ogle the fish and urchins that lived in the blue depths.
When Claudio Corallo says the tasting is at 4:40pm...he means it. Due to some communication issues, we only got picked up, around 5pm so were quite late to the chocolate factory. After much begging, we were let in, but not to taste...only to but the most expensive caffeine products ever.
Because one can never have too much fish, we set off for Papa Figo and were not disappointed...perhaps scared...by the giant octopus on the table...which if turned...would have had us for dinner I'm sure. The fish was a good as they say it is...and may that's why they don't have WiFi.
The party really doesn't start till 11pm because we got to Club Kizomba at
Deja new: Claudio Corallo's daughter, Nigerian-American couple, kizomba girl
Deja vu: Portuguese chix, random spanish couple, Aqua zumba crew
Expenses: 30EUR (75% chocolate, 100% chocolate, box of coffee seeds covered in chocolate-assorted flavours, pack of coffee seeds covered in chocolate, magic ground coffee)
Hospital tour goes splendidly, apparently our driver knows quite a bit about the facility and we had a good chat about the healthcare system.
After all that's been said about O Bigodes, it's probably been the least impressive establishment we visited. The service wasn't anything to write home about and the portions were the size of our left overs from Papa Figo.
Deja new: Boris Kodjo's lost brother
Deja vu: Portuguese chix, Nigerian-American couple, European half of mixed couple from Pico, Claudio Corallo's daughter, kizomba girl?
Question: Can umbrellas travel in the cabin
Answer: No
Deja new: random mixed couple, random Spanish couple
Deja vu: Jerry from Pico
Question: so...what was all that?
Answer: we had so many theories, so feel free to add yours to the comments
Day 5
For the North!By this morning we're fully worn out, but a plan is a plan. We set off for our tour of the Plantations of the north and stroll through the ruins of what is how the hospital of the Agustinho Neto Plantation. We eventually make our way to the paradise that is Lagoa Azul and spend a solid ?60 minutes taking mandatory pictures, swimming, changing into and out of swimwear AKA practising our magic tricks. Luckily I remembered I brought my goggles and was able to ogle the fish and urchins that lived in the blue depths.
When Claudio Corallo says the tasting is at 4:40pm...he means it. Due to some communication issues, we only got picked up, around 5pm so were quite late to the chocolate factory. After much begging, we were let in, but not to taste...only to but the most expensive caffeine products ever.
Because one can never have too much fish, we set off for Papa Figo and were not disappointed...perhaps scared...by the giant octopus on the table...which if turned...would have had us for dinner I'm sure. The fish was a good as they say it is...and may that's why they don't have WiFi.
The party really doesn't start till 11pm because we got to Club Kizomba at
Deja new: Claudio Corallo's daughter, Nigerian-American couple, kizomba girl
Deja vu: Portuguese chix, random spanish couple, Aqua zumba crew
Expenses: 30EUR (75% chocolate, 100% chocolate, box of coffee seeds covered in chocolate-assorted flavours, pack of coffee seeds covered in chocolate, magic ground coffee)
Day 6
This has probably been the most active week I've had in over a year. Just when I had given up on my tour of a medical facility, Pai Beirao says he's connected with the director of the main tertiary hospital and he's agreed to meet with me in the afternoon. So off we go to Pestana Sao Tome, so lounge in the overcast morning sun and drizzle.Hospital tour goes splendidly, apparently our driver knows quite a bit about the facility and we had a good chat about the healthcare system.
After all that's been said about O Bigodes, it's probably been the least impressive establishment we visited. The service wasn't anything to write home about and the portions were the size of our left overs from Papa Figo.
Deja new: Boris Kodjo's lost brother
Deja vu: Portuguese chix, Nigerian-American couple, European half of mixed couple from Pico, Claudio Corallo's daughter, kizomba girl?
Question: Can umbrellas travel in the cabin
Answer: No
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